Scandal Collections: Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis Spring 1993 (English Article)

On a gloomy November Tuesday in 1992, tensions were high as guests impatiently awaited the beginning of Perry Ellis' Spring 1993 Ready-To-Wear fashion show held at the label's showroom in New York City. It was at this exact moment that the world of glitz and glamour split in two. One glance at legendary supermodel Christy Turlington strutting the runway in an everything-but-high fashion flannel shirt, a knitted cardigan, and Dr. Martens left the audience in awe. The reception was mixed, to put it mildly. Given the immense pressure that was imposed on head designer Marc Jacobs, many fashion enthusiasts saluted his liberating bravery in rejecting conventional fashion. His collection didn't appear to be very en vogue in the eyes of the other side, however. Immediately the questions start to flood in. How could anyone demand even a single dollar for such hideousness à la Courtney Love? It's quite clear that the second-hand inspired pieces caused an undeniable and universal shock in the audience, whether through excitement or horror. Contrary to the label’s all-American reputation, one suddenly got the feeling of being an attendee at a tumultuous concert of the grunge band Nirvana. Anyone still unsure of Jacobs' intended vibe simply had to take a listen to the musical soundtrack. Kurt Cobain's raspy voice accompanying the models as they showcased their unconventional looks is proof enough of the influence street culture had on the American designer. It's a clash between traditional elegance and the rebellion of a youth subculture. Although he did not know it yet, the controversy would turn out to be both a curse and a blessing for the 29-year-old designer. Fired by Perry Ellis, Jacobs received his first “Designer of the Year” award presented by the CFDA not even a year later for that very same collection. And even now his work for Perry Ellis holds just as much importance as proved by the New Yorker's decision to release a grunge redux collection for his namesake label in 2018. Because one thing is as clear as day. When Marc Jacobs left the runway on that day in 1992, so did his future at Perry Ellis. However, more significant was the spectacle surrounding the event. It catapulted the collection to instant cult status and put the designer on the map of both his adoring supporters and critics alike.